Ohhh Lulu Pattern Hacks: Jane Bikini Cut Panties to Ruffle Bloomers.

Monday, May 12, 2014

Back in the day, I used to make a lot of these... They were super popular but a lot of work! You can make your own using my Jane Bikini Cut pattern + some lace, chiffon, or ruffle-able fabric of your choice.  I make these Ruffle Bloomers with two layers of raw-edged ruffles. They are great for special occasion lingerie, under a full skirt, or to wear to bed!

Before I start with the Pattern Hack, Here are a few variations I have done of over the years.  My preference for ruffle fabric is lace or chiffon, but you can also use quilting cotton, or self fabric - basically any fabric that won't fray too badly when torn.

Ruffle Bloomers in woven cotton with lace ruffles and ruffle elastic trim.

Ruffle Bloomers in rose print chalis with lace ruffles.

Ruffle Bloomers in plaid flannel with coordinating ruffles.
 What you will need:
Jane Bikini Cut Panties Pattern (you can find it, along wtih other lingerie sewing patterns at Ohhh Lulu Sews)
Supplies for Jane Bikini Cut Panties (indicated on pattern)
Lace Fabric, Chiffon, or Fabric for Ruffling (fabric needs to be 54-60" wide)

1. Assemble your Jane Bikini Cut Panties according to the directions in the pattern, but do not apply elastic  If this is your first time sewing the Jane Bikini Cut pattern, be sure to first sew a mock-up in muslin or scrap fabric.  These panties are made of woven fabric with no stretch, so it is important to test the fit! You should end up with bikini cut panties with NO elastic around the waist or legs.

2. Prepare your Ruffle Fabric.  Cut two lengths of fabric approximately 1.5"-2" wide. Cut each strip in half, so you now have 4 x 27"-30" long strips of fabric. Round off the end of each strip, so that it comes to a soft point (see picture below for details).
TIP! If you are using Lace, cut the fabric with a rotary cutter for a nice clean edge.  If you are using a woven fabric such as quilting cotton or chiffon, snip into the fabric, on a 90 degree angle to the selvedge, then tear the strips across.  This will create a perfectly straight edge, with a soft frayed edge.

3. Make Ruffles!  Stitch a row of basting stitch along the curved edge of the strip.  When you come to the end, leave a long tail of thread.  Grab a hold of your bobbin side thread, and gather the lace.  Press each ruffled strip flat.
TIP! If you are using Lace, you may need to sew your basting stitches by hand.  Some times when machine basting through lace, you might find that the stitches "lock" so test it out first on a piece of scrap lace.

Baste along the curved edge of your strip

Create gathers, then press each strip flat.
 4. Stitch Ruffles onto the leg openings of your panties.  Starting about 1.5" up from the front crotch seam, pin the ruffle to the right side of the panties, along the leg opening.  The end should stop about 1.5" from the back crotch seam.  You may need to adjust the ruffles with your hands so that it is evenly distributed over the hip. The first ruffle will get stitched approximately 3/4" in from the raw edge of the leg opening of the panties, leaving just enough room to finish the leg openings with elastic for our final step.  Use a zig zag stitch to apply the ruffle. Apply one ruffle to each side in the same manner.

5. Stitch second layer of ruffles around leg opening.  Layering the second ruffle just above the first, stitch it down with a zig-zag stitch. Repeat on both sides.

 7. Apply Elastic around leg and waist openings using the instructions in your Jane Bikini Cut Pattern.

8. Finish with a bow or embellishments of your choice! Use satin ribbon to tie a bow and stitch on by hand.

Happy Sewing!


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