Ohh La La Pin Up Sew Along Pt 2... Attaching the back of the corselet and Adding elastic to top and bottom

Tuesday, March 27, 2012


Anna posted on Sunday about how to line the short-version bra.  Her technique can be used on the long line version as well.  I often line just my cups using a technique similar to Anna's, but I attach my lining prior to sewing my side seams, and sew both my lining and self fabric into my side seam.  I love how many ways there are to finish a garment.  

Our side, and side back seams will be finished with a stitched down french, or flatfelled seam, just like we did on the side front seam.  You could also zig-zag or serge your seams.

To finish the upper and lower edge of the bra, I am using a 1/2" picot edged lingerie elastic.  Apply the picot elastic just like we did the bra elastic.  Baste the elastic on using a wide narrow zig-zag stitch, pulling gently as you go. Your stitching line should be about 1/2" in from the raw edge, and the picot edge of your elastic should be facing in towards the body of the garment.
Your basted on elastic should pull the fabric 1-2" shorter.
Stretch your elastic out to make sure it will stretch to fit.  Now is the time we will want to make any necessary changes to the snug-ness of the elastic. You may want to trim back your seam allowance at this point, to prevent any raw edges from poking through.
Folding your elastic under, zig-zag your elastic down towards the inside of the garment, pulling your fabric flat as you go.
Add your elastic around all raw edges of the corset, except for the center back seam where we will be adding hook and eye tape.

The inside of your corset should be nicely finished with no raw edges, and the outside trimmed with your delicate picot trimming!



Just a couple of steps left to go - adding the hooks and eyes, straps, and embellishments.

Who wants to sew a pair of panties after?

7 comments:

  1. I am making a silk version of the bra, and after a somewhat messy binding job on my practice version, I decided to just line it, sewing right sides together and turning for neatness. I would like to incorporate this elastic finishing. Should I instead just baste my bra and lining with wrong sides facing and then apply the elastic? How did you finish the center top part of the cups? Do you think I can stitch that part right sides together and then turn right sides out, baste, and attach elastic?
    Does what I just wrote make any sense? :) What would you recommend? BTW, your bra looks beautiful!

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    1. "Should I instead just baste my bra and lining with wrong sides facing and then apply the elastic?"

      Yes! If you are lining the entire bra, baste your lining and self fabric together, wrong sides facing, then apply the elastic like I have, treating your bra like it is just 1 piece, as opposed to a bra+lining.

      "How did you finish the center top part of the cups?"

      I added the elastic around the entire portion :) I just took my picture too early! lol

      "Okay, I saw the fb photo and can see that there is elastic on the center top of the cups, so I have one other question, did you apply it all at once to the entire top? how do you keep it neat and the points pointy? "

      I apply my sides first, zig-zag it down, then apply 1 single piece all the way around the center edge. When you get to the center front, set your needle down into the fabric and elastic, carefully slash a couple of your center front seam stitches so the center front of the bra will open to accommodate the corner (do not slash the elastic), pivot & gently stretch your elastic around the corner, and carry on basting. Let me know if that makes sense. I can see if I can get a couple of pictures of what I mean if that doesn't quite make sense :)

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  2. Okay, I saw the fb photo and can see that there is elastic on the center top of the cups, so I have one other question, did you apply it all at once to the entire top? how do you keep it neat and the points pointy?

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  3. I'm learning so much from your blog,I can't wait to see it when its all done! XxxX http://thesecondhandrose.blogspot.co.uk/

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  4. Thanks so much for your help! I did it! And it came out very well, I think, for a first time sewing elastic on a silk bra. :)
    http://farmhousegarden.blogspot.com/2012/03/all-caught-up.html

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  5. Totally in for the panties- not started on the bra, but panties seem so much less chalenging!

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